You can use various types of model train switches for this project. With reverse loops, you will have to cut both rails. This is called common rail wiring, which works well for wiring signals with most blocks. When wiring blocks, you can either cut gaps in both rails or wire one rail constantly and only cut a single rail. I split the loop in half to create an A block and B block, using an MTH Z-4000, 1 handle for each half of the loop. thought ya'll enjoy reading how it ended up for me.I have a loop of track aprox 75 feet total. lol I thought I was ingenious, anyway that's my story on this. truck working fine and no more drag, still have to contend with the hard brakes though until money comes in, but got to get to work.įunny thing though I was feeling all smart and inventive over the belt configuration thing that I was talking to my parts guy about the situation and instead of hearing that he was impressed he said he's heard of people doing that before. Went to the parts store for a new belt and vac pump but couldn't afford the pump right now, so just got the new belt and kept the alternate belt set up for now. I kept the engine under 2000 rpm and made it home. the belt had been stretched a bit and was a bit lose but the pulleys were grabbing enough that I had the courage to drive the truck home carefully. I said a quick prayer and turned the truck on, she fired right up and idled smoothly. A friend of mine suggested that I put the belt back on skipping the stuck pulley, I used the diagram on the radiator support and drew on it over and over to see if I could reroute things, I came up with a plan to reroute the belt without using the vacuum pump. I was still in a pickle because I knew I couldn't get home like that. I figured that this was my culprit since there were also small rubber shavings on the pulley as well. I noticed my vac pump pulley would move freely but at times hang up and couldn't be moved by hand. I figured that since the shiny was on the smooth outside portion of the belt I figured idler pulley or water pump or vac pump seized up. I loosened the belt and unstuck it from all the pulleys. after staring at the engine in disbelief, I was afraid to drive the truck home and be stranded (especially since I have a 45 minute stretch out in the wilderness)Īfter work I looked at the belt again and it appeared to weak and there was no store nearby to get a belt from. Once I got to work I could smell rubber and heat, I checked under the hood and the belt was shiny and very thin. I know it was good because this cps is a few weeks new. then last night I while going to work, I was hearing an intermittent chirp and the engine would bog a bit as if cps was bad. got no sucking when I disconnect the hose from the booster. ThaNKS FOR YOUR HELP/SUGGESTIONS IN ADVANCE at best im a backyard parts changer and need help with this diagnosis. My question is how can i find out or test my booster and or vaccum without all the fancy tools. my pedal dosent sink gradually if i hold pressuren on it. Im able to select different setting for my air vents from defrost, vents, or floor board. the harder i push the more brake i get, its exhausting but scary especially on busy freeway days. no brakes unless i stand on the pedal then i get brake but i stop slowly. anyway fixed the problem but now the brakes are super hard, i might get 2" of travel and i can hear that "pfft" sound when you first hit the brakes but then its like im standing on a rock. my rears if any of you saw my last thread i put two primarys on the same side and had problems with hold down springs kept ppopping. 1st of all front brakes and rear brakes are a few months old. ive been reading the forums to determine if my booster or vac pump out. Ok all my 97 7.3 obs has a very hard brake pedal, i need to stand on it and pray i can give it enough pressure to grab and stop.
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